First seam split in over a year. My left hand ring finger A3 is tender to the touch sometimes. My right hand middle finger A2 is now suffering the same fate. I'm tired. I feel heavy. My finger numbers are down 10-15%. I can't seem to engage and pull through with my shoulders. I've been drinking my protein shakes. I've been cooking at home and eating clean. Cutting down on alcohol. Three to four liters of water a day.

To hold fast, or to adjust, or to change completely?

I emailed Steve Bechtel to ask this. To my delight, he responded pretty quickly and actually read through the long write up I sent with all my training logs. It seems like at the volume and intensity I'm climbing, my connective tissue can't keep up. Capacity doesn't seem to be an issue, so I'm dropping those on the bouldering days, and taking this 7 day schedule and turning it into 10 days with rest. Additionally, I emailed Tyler Nelson to ask about BFR training specifically for boulderers looking to build aerobic capacity. He recommended 15 minutes under occlusion going to muscular failure with an Aeroedge on one hand, swap hands, go to failure, swap back, rinse and repeat.

With a month to go to Argentina, the important thing is to not get injured. Let's adjust and get through this month.